Written by Maël
02 Nov 2025
Coming from a christian family, but not believing myself, I briefly knew what All Saints Day was before coming to Sweden (though I had never really celebrated it). However, in Sweden, “alla helgons dag” is a celebrated public holiday every first weekend of November. So I wondered, what makes this day special here?
To experience the atmosphere for myself, I decided to visit Norra Begravningsplatsen, one of the largest and most historic cemeteries.
All Saints Day
If you’re not Christian (or even if you are), you might wonder what this day is all about. In short, it’s a holy day dedicated to honoring all saints, known and unknown, and remembering those who have passed away. The idea behind it is the belief in a spiritual connection between the living, the faithful departed, and those in heaven.
Traditionally, people visit cemeteries on this day to lay flowers, light candles, and say prayers or blessings at the graves of loved ones. In Sweden, it has become a quiet, reflective holiday. Unlike the more festive Halloween atmosphere in other countries, Sweden carries more of a calm, reflective tone throughout the All Saints Day weekend.
Norra Begravningsplatsen
Located on the border between Stockholm and Solna lies norra begravningsplatsen. I chose this particular cemetery for my experience, as it carries a rich history: Built in 1817, it hosts approximately 33.000 graves of various types on 63.000 sqm. Within these grounds, there is a catholic and a jewish cemetery besides the main cemetery. This is the resting place of many notable figures, one of which is Alfred Nobel.
It also has norra kapellet, one of the two chapels of norra begravningsplatsen. It was built in 1909, and was actually Sweden’s first crematorium!
My Experience
To get there, there was a special bus line: Line 58, only running three times a year!
At stora gravkoret (the other chapel, and the first bus stop within the cemetery), people handed out hot juice and sweets against the crisp cold. There was a small exhibition about the history and what is special about norra begravningsplatsen. Staff distributed maps to find your way around the huge cemetery, but there were also several staff at every corner to make sure you don’t get lost in the dark. Because, dark it was: A few lanterns were on, but one mostly followed a path of small fires and candles laid out by staff. Occasionally, a cosy fire has been lit on the side for people to warm up a bit.
Like I mentioned, one of the most common traditions is to light a candle at the grave of your loved ones. In the dark, this image of small flickering lights can be seen from far away already, but it becomes even more beautiful close up.
What I really noticed, beside the beautiful lights, was the mix of people. All ages, all sorts of groups. Families, friends, couples, and those walking alone. All were lighting candles, talking quietly to each other or simply standing in silent remembrance.
In conversations with staff members, I learned more about the traditions and meaning of All Saints’ Day in Sweden. They shared small personal stories and reflections that really added depth to my evening.
The atmosphere
To me, the atmosphere was something I’ve never experienced before. It transformed into something almost magical. It was soft in its stillness, but flowing. The flickering candlelights everywhere are a beautiful sight to look at any day, but having learned about the meaning behind them, I felt deeply moved. It was comforting, in a way, to see all these people remembering their beloved. Almost no grave was not lit in some way. There was a feeling of peace rising inside of me, coming together with all these humans and witnessing the soft gold and amber colours of the firelights reflected in the autumn leaves.
I was also surprised that the atmosphere does not feel heavy at all. I noticed that All Saints Day is less about mourning, but about remembering with peace and gratitude. It’s about connection, memory, and light in the darkness. It’s calm, reflective, and deeply human.
Walking back, surrounded by thousands of candles shimmering in the cold night, I felt both uplifted and humbled. I now understood why All Saints Day holds such a place in Swedish hearts. There’s something very beautiful about how Sweden treats this day: no big displays, no loud traditions, just light in the darkness.
So, if you’re in Sweden during early November, I highly recommend visiting a cemetery like Norra Begravningsplatsen on All Saints Day. Bring a thermos, walk slowly, and take in the atmosphere. It’s one of those cultural experiences that words alone can’t quite capture.
